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Scenes

Advent tips: Only in Salzburg

During Advent, Salzburg is transformed into a captivatingly magical small city, its mighty fortress enthroned amidst Baroque splendor, a fairytale world coming to life at its feet. Strings of lights below starry skies, the snow-capped market stands of the Christkindlmarkt and people with broad smiles on their faces conjure up a charmed cosmos completely sheltered from the hectic hustle and bustle of the Christmas season. Here, we share several hand-picked tips for culture aficionados, families and those who simply love the city.

1.    Close encounters with Santa and Christkind

The Salzburger Christkindlmarkt, which is held on Cathedral Square and Residenzplatz, is an absolute paradise for everyone who relishes the atmosphere of Advent and lovingly crafted objects. But it is also the place where ages-old Christmas traditions continue to be nurtured and celebrated. The Krampuses and Perchten get up to their customary mischief, Saint Nick hands out sweets on 6 December and brass musicians, performing atop the Cathedral Arches and balconies, give visitors goosebumps as the lights of the market are dimmed. Yet another highlight comes with the appearance of the original Salzburg Christkindl and his angels. The children’s eyes beam in wonder as Christkind helps them jot down their Christmas wishes on a piece of paper, then launch them into the air attached to a helium balloon. 

2.    Only here. Only now. Taste the “Haunsberger”

Let there be no doubt: The Christkindlmarkt – held on Cathedral Square and the Residenzplatz – appeals to all of the senses. Not the least of which is the sense of taste, with a culinary offering that will quickly leave you swooning helplessly with joy. If you, like us, are constantly searching for something really special, on Residenzplatz – to be specific, at the stand (No. 82) run by the Muckenhammer family – you will find the so-called “Haunsberger”: a warm bread roll, filled with homemade pork sausage meat, mustard, sauerkraut, onions and curry. A mouthwatering treat, only available during Christmas season, with a flavor rather reminiscent of the Bosna, yet another Salzburg original. As for the Haunsberger, it was created around 30 years ago, due to the fact that no two stands at the Christkindlmarkt are allowed to serve the exact same food. 

3.    Wising up to Krampus

Most of us know him – many of us might have even experienced him in person. Up close, so to say. Krampus is a companion of Saint Nick and gets up to all kinds of mischief on and around 5 December. But who exactly is this eerie, unsettling figure and what does he represent? The Salzburg Christmas Museum on Mozart Square presents Krampus in a separate section of its exhibition. Meanwhile, an interactive Krampus World during Hellbrunner Adventzauber comes scarily close to bringing him to life. In cleverly staged scenes, you develop a chilling sense of why he has managed to terrify big and small throughout the years. Afterwards, if you still dare to, you can attend one of the Krampus parades that take place in the Salzburg historic district – goosebumps included. 

4.    Embracing Christmas year-round 

In the heart of the historic district, you will not only encounter traces of Mozart, the works of great architects and an array of culinary treasures – this is also the place that Christmas and the Christmas spirit radiate 365 days a year. In fact, the Salzburg Christmas Museum on Mozart Square and the shop “Christmas in Salzburg”, hidden away in the nearby Judengasse, are open virtually year-round. What might seem a little kitschy to some, represents heaven on earth to others. International visitors, in particular, really value these insights into one of Austria’s most beloved traditions. And who said that the legend of Krampus and the significance of Advent calendars can only be told in December?

5.    Circus magic at Winterfest 

Circus artistry, magic and acrobatics – for more than two decades now, these have been the ingredients of Winterfest in the Salzburg Volksgarten. Year after year, circus troupes from around the world draw visitors to the city of Mozart for this, the biggest circus festival in the German-speaking world. For many of those who attend, this festival now occupies a permanent place on their Advent calendar. Whilst festive illuminations and the smells of Christmastime evoke a magical atmosphere throughout the rest of the city, the acrobats performing in the circus tents conjure up one inspirational moment after another, transporting audiences into their own unique universe.

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