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Scenes

IN FOCUS: Schallmoos

Prince Archbishop Paris Lodron had Schallmoos drained 400 years ago. Since then, this once marshy area has gradually morphed into one of the hippest parts of Salzburg. What would the archbishop say if he could see the goings-on in Schallmoos today!

Four centuries ago, if you were intent on trudging through Schallmoos, you would be best advised to do so on a sunny day, though even then, you’d probably end up with soggy feet. Hardly surprising, considering that the area consisted only of marshes, marshes and, oh yes, more marshes! By the time the plague arrived, the popularity of “Schalmos” dropped to an all-time low. In fact, the locals blamed this boggy area and its “evil vapors” for the epidemic. Archbishop Paris Lodron had the area drained as much as possible, then divided it into parcels of land which he gave to the surrounding small farmers. In exchange, those same farmers were expected to cultivate and develop the land. That said, their euphoria had its limits and the government was finally compelled to hire soldiers to make Schallmoos half-way inhabitable.

Transforming the schal mos

Once they hit their stride, the prince-archbishop and his team really did some amazing work. The original “schal” (= pallid, pale) “mos” (= moor, marsh) soon became a fading memory. And instead, we encounter first mention of resplendent smaller properties, including a very pretty Baroque stately home known as the Robinighof. An architectural jewel with rococo facade, in and out of which a certain Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart would regularly saunter, since he was good friends with the children who lived in this house. The Robinighof on Robinigstraße can still be admired by visitors to this day.

Schallmoos as a trendy neighborhood

In modern Schallmoos, the only thing you are likely to “get bogged down in”, so to speak, is one of the countless locations that make this part of the city such a popular gathering spot, now a magnet for foodies, culture fans and night owls alike. If you are in the mood for something rustic with a local flavor, you might decide to navigate your way over to Kastner’s Schenke: Guests here can quaff home-brewed beer, enjoyed right next to where it fermented. If your tendency is towards hearty regional fare along with craft beers that enjoy almost cult status, then the Fuxn – a property known as the Fuchsengut 400 years ago – will definitely be “what the doctor ordered”. The Urbankeller also looks back on a tradition that is at least as long, the very first organic-certified tavern in the city.

Dining, Culture & Sport

In former times, the Urbankeller was used to store beer. Today, it also provides a stage for the independent performing arts scene in the form of “das kleine theater”. Dance and performance also play a big role right next door, at the Salzburg Experimental Academy of Dance – SEAD. This education center for contemporary dance and choreography is located close to Rockhouse Salzburg, a popular music club in the Kapuzinerberg. Music café Plan B as well as session venue and record store Minerva Records in Schallmoos have likewise dedicated themselves to the coolest musical sounds.

Sportier types may wish to pay a visit to the Boulderbar. Not only can you squeeze in a spot of actual bouldering here, it is also a popular location for concerts and other special events. Yet another highlight: the City Wall, a fixed-cable mountaineering area right in the middle of the city. An extraordinary place to enjoy the sunset above Schallmoos – and let your thoughts roam back to the days when Paris Lodron first pulled the plug.

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